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✨ “Take it easy driving – the life you save may be mine.”
― James Dean
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I write this blog on behalf of my husband, Dave Clarkson, who supplies me with all the technical specs, info and interesting stories! Feel free to contact him on his cellphone at +27 60 637 2560.


Thursday, 30 April 2015

Adding A Collectible Car To Your Portfolio For Fun And Profit


Well-heeled enthusiasts are dropping some serious money on collectible cars these days, not only as investments but as rolling works of art that can be appreciated as few appreciable assets can – out on the open road.

Collectible cars have always been a great investment and there are a lot of people out there who love cars and feel more comfortable putting their money in auto-mobiles than leaving it stagnate in a bank account.

Although there’s no crystal ball that lets an investor determine the future value of a collectible car, here are a few helpful tips for those looking to add one or more vintage rides to their portfolios as well as a wish list of 10 up-and-coming classic models that can be expected to grow in value over the coming years.

- Choose a particular model more for its personal and emotional appeal than strictly as an avenue for profit. Choose what you like, something you’ll enjoy driving and owning, and if there’s a dividend down the road – congratulations.

- But a word of caution - some cars may have great visual appeal that may not translate into value or reliability. In other words, do your homework and use the Internet and other resources to determine which models are most-desired by other collectors and to help estimate current values.

- Inspect the car thoroughly for rust, accident damage or any other faults

- As is the prudent course of action when buying any used vehicle, buy vintage cars only from reputable sources and have an expert mechanic check out a model under consideration to ensure it’s in good shape. Make sure the technician you choose is well versed in the peculiarities of the particular genre of vehicle in which you’re interested. If you’re buying a British sports car, you need to find a mechanic that understands British cars.

- Choose the best model in the best condition within a given class you can afford.

- Keep an eye out for originality – the fewer numbers of a particular model built or the rarity of a particular option combination included, the greater its value.

Even when stored properly, a car deteriorate when it’s not driven – by ‘exercising’ the car it stays in shape,. One of the best things you can do for a collectible car is to drive it. There’s no other investment that allows that kind of enjoyment!

TOP 10 (Starting at No. 10)


10. Morgan Plus 8. Built from 1968-2004
Take an unmistakably British roadster design, refrain from all but the most necessary updates to comply with regulations, build -- partially from wood -- in low numbers and, finally, become an icon. Now repeat. This was basically Morgan’s playbook for decades, and the team’s star forward was unquestionably the Plus 8. Built from 1968-2004 with few visual changes, this Moggie looked like ye olde sporting motorcar, but handled quite well and could keep up with many contemporary sports cars. Even today, there’s something quirky and fun about squeezing into one of these all-time British cars for a drive, especially the propane-fueled '84-'89 cars whose Buick-designed, Rover-sourced 3.5-liter V8 had fuel injection and a certain agility dulled by the bigger engines that soon followed.


9. Austin-Healey Sprite. 1958-1961
Donald Healey’s ultimate statement of affordable fun turns 50 this year, and even though the Austin-Healey Sprite’s demise came in 1969 (the less charismatic MG Midget cousin soldiered on another decade), it’s still one of the most popular all-time British cars for the street or, when modified, the track. Healey’s cost-saving approach depended on unabashed raiding of Austin and BMC parts bins, but the early Mk I Sprites of 1958-1961 featured an unmistakable front-end treatment: The Brits nicknamed these cars Frogeyes, whereas we nicknamed them Bugeyes. Regardless, these are the Sprites to own -- the ones wearing smiles, as big as their owners’.


8. Lotus Elise. First produced for Europe in 1996
Lotus founder Colin Chapman may have left us too soon, but his influence lives on with one of the all-time British cars worthy of being called a Lotus: the Elise. Chapman put Lotus on the map through obsessively cutting all unnecessary weight in his cars and tuning them for performance and handling. First produced for Europe in 1996, and finally appearing in the U.S. as a 2005 Series 2 model, some consider the Lotus Elise to be the car that saved the company’s bacon. Its success marked the long-overdue return of a genuine, reasonably affordable British sports car.


7. Landrover Series I, II and III. Between 1948 and 1985
Let’s make it perfectly clear: This is not about the squeaky-clean yuppie haulers that litter the suburbs. This is the British equivalent to America’s Jeep -- and to some Americans, the more desirable choice. Between 1948 and 1985, Series I, II and III Rovers were rugged and sparse, often matching the terrain they crossed. Like the Jeep, there was no pretense in the Rover’s presence, just incredible off-road ability. So as you might guess, this makes for a less than placid ride and handling on pavement. For the most agreeable compromise, shop for later Series IIIs from '82-'85 with their stronger half shafts and availability of limited creature comforts.


6. Aston Martin DB5. 1963
True, this is the model famous for its appearances as James Bond’s personal car, but even without all the 007 gadgets, an Aston Martin DB5 is quite a performer. Its 4.0-liter I-6 was smooth and powerful, offering up 282 horsepower and 8.1-second 0-60 mph acceleration on the way to a 143-mph top speed. This wasn’t half bad for 1963, and even now, a well-sorted DB5 doesn’t completely feel its age from behind the wheel. Production gave way to the DB6 in 1965, and the model’s celebrity association doesn’t make finding or affording one any easier. That’s not to say this all-time British car isn’t totally worth the effort.


5. Bentley Continental GT.
It was a tough call whether to recognize the impact of the 1920s 4.5-liter Blower Bentley or to celebrate the contemporary Continental GT coupe. In the end, the GT -- even if derided by some as a “German Bentley” due to the marque’s VW ownership -- takes the honor. Short of supercars at twice the price, there just aren’t many modern cars that make the statement of the Continental GT. Luxury and performance credentials are implied at a glance and immediately substantiated by the driving experience. Triple-digit speeds are attainable in a flash, but the whole affair is drama-free from inside the well-appointed cabin. Truly, that qualifies this all-time British car as a Bentley.


4. Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II. From 1959-1962
Today’s Phantom sedans and convertibles are impressive, but only time will tell whether their legends compare to the Silver Cloud’s. From 1959-1962, this car was the modern link to the marque’s earliest models that amazed buyers with durability, refinement and quiet, fuss-free operation. The Silver Cloud II featured understated improvements in cabin and exterior design elements that would live on in later cars for decades. Speaking of long-lived traits, the introduction of the Silver Cloud II also marked the debut of the 6.2-liter V8 and this all-time British car's “adequate” horsepower.


3. Jaguar E-type.
Earlier E-Type models from '61-'64 are seen as more desirable due to the covered headlamps and the entertaining 3.8-liter I-6 engine. For many enthusiasts, this is not a British car, this is the British car. Even Enzo Ferrari remarked that it was the most beautiful car ever made, upon its 1961 release. He wasn’t alone in this sentiment, as the immediately popular E-Type not only looked stylish enough to play with a Ferrari, it had the power to run with them. Jaguar press materials claimed 150 mph was possible, and if this was a little optimistic, it wasn’t off by much. Owners today probably aren’t as keen to explore their all-time British cars' upper limits, given the strong market and consistent demand. Earlier E-Type models from '61-'64 are seen as more desirable due to the covered headlamps and the entertaining 3.8-liter I-6 engine.


2. Austin Mini. 1959 to 1967
New MINI Coopers are typically dwarfed by just about anything on four wheels -- except maybe for the legend it’s based upon. And while the new car at least deserves an honorable mention in a review of all-time British cars, the original 1959 car made it all possible, even if it was somewhat by accident. Sir Alec Issigonis was only acting on orders to design a fuel-efficient car, not trying to create a legend -- but it turned out that both happened in the process. Thrift-minded consumers and celebrities alike celebrated the Mini, and it also made a name for itself in the racing world. Sales in the U.S. never matched those overseas, and tightening federal regulations didn’t help; so finding a decent '60-'67 model wasn't exactly easy.


1. MG TC. 1945-1950 
You have to wonder what the state of sports cars would be today without the 1945-1950 MG TC. On its own, frankly, it was nothing spectacular. However, MGs were nothing like the typical cars across the pond, so they became a hit with American GIs abroad. Some brought the little TCs home after World War II, while others quickly bought them as dealers sprang up. Regardless, the acceptance of the unconventional car within such a car-centric culture is likely to be a major factor in what followed here and around the world.

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Monday, 27 April 2015

15 Basic rules for driving in Gauteng


1. Turn signals will give away your next move. A real Gauteng driver never uses them.

2. Under no circumstance should you leave a safe distance between you and the car in front of you, or the space will be filled by two Golfs, a BMW and an Uno, putting you in an even more dangerous situation.

3. The faster you drive through a red light, the smaller the chance you have of getting hit.

4. Never, ever come to a complete stop at a stop sign. No one expects it and it will only result in you being rear-ended.



5. Braking is to be done as hard and late as possible to ensure that your ABS kicks in, giving you a nice, relaxing foot massage as the brake pedal pulsates. For those of you without ABS, it's a chance to stretch your legs.

6. Never pass on the right when you can pass on the left. It's a good way to check if the people entering the highway are awake.

7. Speed limits are arbitrary figures, given only as a guideline. They are especially not applicable in Gauteng during rush hour. That's why it's called 'rush hour...'.

8. Just because you're in the right lane and have no room to speed up or move over doesn't mean that a Gauteng driver flashing his high beams behind you doesn't think he can go faster in your spot.


9. Always slow down and rubberneck when you see an accident or even someone changing a tyre. Never stop to help - you will be mugged.

10. Learn to swerve abruptly. Gauteng is the home of the high-speed slalom driving thanks to the Metro Police Department, which puts holes in key locations to test drivers' reflexes and keep them on their toes.

11. It is traditional in Gauteng to honk you horn at cars that don't move the instant the light turns green. This prevents storks from building nests on top of the traffic light and Indian mynahs from making deposits on your car.

12. Remember that the goal of every Gauteng driver is to get there first by whatever means necessary.


13. In the Gauteng area, "flipping someone the bird" is considered a polite Gauteng salute. This gesture should always be returned.

14. On average, at least three cars can still go through an intersection after the light has turned red. It's people not adhering to this basic principal that causes the big traffic jams during rush hour.

15. A solid white line is the same as a staggered line in Gauteng. The Metro Police Department just have to save paint to buy new cars for all the new directors. A solid white line next to a staggered line means they have sorted the directors out and the paint contract has been awarded to their wives.

 
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Sunday, 19 April 2015

Classic cars as an alternative investment


Stocks and shares aren’t the only option for investing savings. Classic cars, vintage watches and fine wines are just some of the profitable ways to prepare for the future.

Traditional investment vehicles have taken a pounding in the last seven years and could become more unstable next year given Eurozone stagflation, setbacks in Japan, a debt-ridden China, oil-price collapse and diminishing returns from G7 monetary stimulus.


However, uncertainty in the markets is making the world of alternative investment increasingly attractive for those seeking returns on their cash. And let’s face it, a 1950 Ferrari 166 Inter Vignale Coupe and a case of Chateau Latour are sexier than a wad of share certificates!

According to Knight Frank’s Luxury Investment Index, alternative or “passion” investments such as fine art, antiques, classic cars and fine wine have outstripped the FTSE100 in the last decade.

Classic cars have proved particularly profitable. The Blue Chip index of classic cars, compiled by specialist Hagerty, which is made up of the 25 most sought after post-war cars, has more than doubled since the start of 2010.

1964 MGB Roadster pull-handle

Between 1992 and 2012, the value of classic and collectable cars rose by an average of between 18 per cent and 20 per cent a year. An MGB that would have cost £5,000 five years ago could now set you back more than £10,000.

The pattern is often repeated in other investment areas. Between 2005 and the end of June 2013, the price of collectible watches rose by 176 per cent while jewels returned 146 per cent.

In the art world, traditional Chinese artworks rose by 163 per cent between 2005 and mid-2013. Fine wine has also enjoyed a boom in the last 15 years and although the market saw blips in 2008 and 2011, it has begun to show signs of recovery in the last quarter.
Info from “The Telegraph”

According to the Knight Frank Wealth Report, classic cars were the top performing collectible investment in 2014, posting gains of 16 percent. That narrowly beat art, with 15 percent gains, and coins, with 13 percent gains. But cars left stamps, jewelry, wine, coloured diamonds and watches in the dust. Cars have also held the pole position over the longer term. They have posted the best 10-year performance—with gains of 487 percent—as well as the best over five years, with 140 percent.

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Saturday, 11 April 2015

How to avoid destroying the paint-job on your vintage car


Winter is upon us, and this sometimes means you'll be taking your vintage car out less than usual. Winter is the ideal time for 'spring cleaning', in your house, business as well as body, mind and spirit. Whether you're embarking on a new 'correct eating plan', or whether you've decided to implement your New Year's resolution early, Spring is always a good time to implement new ideas and plans.

Why wait for the so-called 'end of the year' or '1st January' or 'Monday'? The present time is all we have – yesterday doesn't exist and tomorrow doesn't exist – there's no time like the present. Make it your goal to be in love with every NOW moment. And that means this moment of NOW SPRING-CLEANING YOUR GARAGE and avoid destroying the paint-job on your vintage car!


There is nothing worse than a cluttered garage or workshop! A cluttered space is one of the main causes of lost tools, injuries and damage to your precious vintage car. It makes sense to clean up the space where you store your vintage car, so protecting your investment and ensuring your own safety and a safe and healthy environment for you and your family.


Obviously the first step is to unpack the garage, clean the floors and walls and then go through all your stuff and decide what to keep. Be ruthless. Throw away anything that you haven't even SEEN for years! Then pack what you want to keep in order of importance - then it will be easy to carry back and store it in order of relevance.

If you're a 'hoarder' like me, then preferably you should have a seperate store room for all the other 'necessities' that can't be thrown away. For example, I never throw away large sheets of cardboard or plastic, they're great to lie on under the car (if you haven't got a pit), but they should definitely be stored away from where you keep your car as they are a great fire hazard. All hazardous chemicals (petrol, paint, oil, etc) should also be kept in some other safe place.


The first step before you pack everything back, is to organise your now nice and clean garage with shelving, cupboards, tool boxes and peg board on the walls for easy access to the tools and equipment you use most. Make sure you leave enough room on the sides so that the car doors can easily open without bumping on anything, which can cause a lot of damage.

This is not an ideal situation. The motorbike is far too close to the car for confort!

Here are a few examples of some pretty neat clean, good-looking garages.






Before and after - a perfect clean-up operation!


Ideally,your workshop should be separate from where you store your finished project and here things can get a bit more messy. But it is still common sense to have a clean-up every couple of months to ensure safety and a comfortable working space.


A perfect example of a well thought-out workshop.

Classic cars are an incredible investment. Since 2008, the classic car market has grown enormously and the value of the cars has gone stratospheric.From the average collector’s point of view, it’s something that can offer a good pension pot. If you put your money into a nice classic now, you’ll probably double or treble your money when you sell it. Life’s too short not to enjoy what you are doing and if you can invest in a car or a boat or a piece of art – anything that you love and enjoy – then so much the better.

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Tuesday, 7 April 2015

Car of the month April 2015 - 1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater


In May 2012 I decided to attend the car show ‘Cars in the Park’ in Pietermaritzburg again and I spent a lovely day viewing some beautiful classics, having some interesting chats with the guys, a hot dog or two and a couple of Heinekens.

While I was browsing, I came upon a beautiful Austin Healey which was for sale, got the owner’s details and upon my return home, I phoned the owner and arranged to go and see it.

Upon my arrival, I was told it was rebuilt 10 years ago and it was in amazing condition, clean and unmolested and I was assured that it would go to Cape Town and back with no problems whatsoever.

The owner also advised that the car had been to the Austin Healey Birthday celebration in England in 2002 and pointed out the badge on the dashboard commemorating the 50-Year Anniversary. This is a very prestigious event and not many cars can add this achievement to their history. So after a careful inspection, during which time I fell totally in love, I decided to buy her.

The Motor magazine tested the BN7 in 1960 to top speed of 115mph and acceleration from 0-60mph in 11.7 seconds with a fuel consumption of 21.6mpg.

Arriving home with my new acquisition!

In May of 1961 BMC upgraded their flagship model with three SU HS4 carburetors, modified valve springs and a new camshaft. Called the MKII, it was an alternative to the Triumph TR3A or Jaguar E-Type.

In many ways, the fun of driving a Healey is directly traceable to this transmission and its Laycock de Normanville overdrive. Running fast in third and fourth, using the overdrive switch like another shift lever, can be pure joy. The shift lever's action is stiff but accurate, and declutching to switch the overdrive in and out, though quite unnecessary, results in crisp, fast shifts that are a delight to the ear and the seat of the pants. The ponderous nature of all the controls is a factor which lends a kind of appealing massive masculinity to the car. Again, this is traditional, harking back to those days when sports cars were meat for men only and the ladies rode reluctantly if at all or, better yet, stood timidly and admiringly by the side of the road.


This car has a 2 door convertible/cabriolet type body with a front located engine powering the rear wheels. Its 6 cylinder, overhead valve naturally aspirated engine has 2 valves per cylinder and a capacity of 2.9 litres. It produces power and torque figures of 132 bhp (134 PS/98 kW) at 4750 rpm and 226 Nm (167 lbft/23 kgm) at 3000 rpm respectively. The engine powers the wheels through a 4 speed manual with overdrive transmission. It weighs a stated 1158 kg at the kerb. Maximum quoted speed is 181 km/h (112 mph).


The Austin-Healey 3000 was introduced in 1959, replacing the Austin-Healey 100-6. Production of the MKII BN7 was very limited to only 355 cars. The BT7 4-seat roadster vastly outsold it at 5,096 units. A BT7 with hardtop and overdrive cost £1362 including the hefty British taxes. A total of 11,564 were made: 355 BN7 Mark II, 5,096 BT7 Mark II, and 6,113 BJ7.


Introduced in March 1961 as the BN7 Mark II (2-seat) and BT7 Mark II (2+2), the 3000 Mark II series came with three SU HS4 carburettors and an improved camshaft. However, the triple SUs proved difficult to balance and were replaced with two SU HS6 upon the introduction of the BJ7 (2+2) model in January 1962. With its début the BN7 Mark II was discontinued in March 1962, and the BT7 Mark II in June 1962. Options on the MKII included 15x4 chromed wire wheels, a brake servo system and a tonneau cover that could be opened for just the driver.

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater - rear view

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater - badge

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater front grill

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater interior

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater interior

1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK.II 2-seater Engine bay

Austin Healey 3000's have a long competition history, and raced at most major racing circuits around the world, including Sebring (USA), Le Mans (France), and Mount Panorama Circuit, Bathurst (Australia). The BMC competitions department rallied the 3000 from its introduction, but the development of the works cars effectively ended in 1965, mainly because of the success of the Mini Cooper 'S'.

Ces’t la vie! (Happy motoring!) From the pen of the “Ja Broer” 
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Friday, 3 April 2015

1956 Ferguson Vaaljapie TE-F 20 #2

OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS for the FERGUSON TE-F 20 Tractor (Vaaljapie) ....... WARNING Keep a new tractor on light work for fifty hours.


WARNING
Keep a tractor on light work for fifty hours.


Keep the fuel system, fuel storage and handling arrangements scrupulously clean. Do not tamper with the injector pump, governors or injectors. Drive slowly in difficult going. Do not carry anything on the implement. Keep all nuts and bolts tight. This precaution is a general practice with all good operators, who have found that it prolongs the life of the tractor by keeping all parts in perfect alignment. Use an adequate shield to protect the power take-off universal joints. Do not use the draw bar without the drawbar stays. Allow ten seconds to elapse before re-engaging starter if previous attempt at starting has failed.

IT IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS TO PULL ANYTHING FROM THE TOP LINK CONNECTION


YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED


WARNING AGAINST OVERLOADING 
The third gear should not be used with any implement which operates underneath the ground such as a plough, cultivator, etc.

The hydraulic system is designed to operate perfectly in first or second gear but it will not operate perfectly in third gear.

The third gear is too fast for normal implement use. Implements such as ploughs and cultivators, which operate underneath the ground, and which are liable to catch on obstructions, are not designed to stand stresses above 3 m.p.h. (5.6 k.p.h.). It is a fallacy to think that operating in third gear will save the tractor and save fuel for normal work. This gear for normal work would cause overloading, and overloading is disastrous to the life of a tractor.

The third gear is meant to be used for light work only and for implements which operate above the ground, such as a light roller.

A SIMPLE TEST OF OVERLOADING 
With the tractor in motion set the throttle lever about half way open. Then quickly flick the throttle fully open. If the tractor speeds up rapidly the engine is not overloaded—if slowly, the engine is overloaded. These remarks apply to any tractor. The overloading should be remedied at once to avoid serious damage.

When operating up a steep hill the above test might indicate overloading. This is not harmful as it is compensated for when coming downhill.

It is continuous overloading that must be avoided.

OPERATIONAL SECTION 
This section describes the principal tractor controls, how they are used and how the engine is started in varying climatic conditions.

Fig. I 

A. CLUTCH PEDAL.
B. FOOT REST.
C. GEAR SELECTOR LEVER.
D. PRE-HEATER CONTROL SWITCH.
L. FOOT REST
E. FUEL CUT-OFF CONTROL.
M. COMBINED BRAKE PEDAL
F. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. WITH PARKING LATCH.
G. HAND THROTTLE LEVER.
N. HYDRAULIC CONTROL LEVER.
H. KIGASS INJECTOR PUMP.
J. AMMETER.
K. DECOMPRESSION LEVER— REAR.
0. STARTER SWITCH SAFETY BUTTON.

CONTROLS & INSTRUMENTS (Figs 1 & 2)

Gear Selector Lever
Lift lever for selection of reverse gear or for operation of electric starter in conjunction with safety button.

Pre-heater Control Switch
Use in conjunction with Kigass injector pump and hold out to operate.

Fuel Cut-off Control
Pull out to stop engine.

Excess Fuel Device
Press operating button before starting up (See Fig 11)

Oil Pressure Gauge
Normal pressure : 40-60 lb./sq.inch (2:8-4:2 kg./sq.cm)

Hand Throttle Control
Move clockwise to increase engine speed.

Kigass Injector Pump
Unscrew and pull out knob, then push in sharply to inject furl spray into the manifold. Screw knob in to secure.

Ammeter
Rate of charge depends on state of batteries.

Decompression Lever Three positions :-

UP - allowing full compression to all four cylinders.
INTERMEDIATE - located by ball catch - relieving compression from three cylinders.
DOWN - relieving compression from all four cylinders.

Combined Brake Pedal
Pressure on this pedal operates brakes on both rear wheels. Ratchet can be engaged for parking. Independent Brake Pedals Pressure on either pedal on appropriate wheel only, to assist reduction of turning circle.

Fig 2 

KEY TO FIG 2

A. ADJUSTABLE STOP
B. HYDRAULIC PUMP CONTROL LEVER
C. CONTROL LEVER QUADRANT
D. HYDRAULIC MECHANISM AND TRANSMISSION OIL DIPSTICK
E. STARTER SPRING LOADED SAFETY STOP
F. INDEPENDANT BRAKE PEDAL (R.H.)
G. BATTERY INSPECTION PLATE.

Hydraulic Control Lever
When hydraulic pump is in operation, rearward movement of lever raises linkage, forward movement allows it to drop under its own weight.

Starter Switch Safety Button
This must be pressed while gear selector lever is moved forward to operate electric starter. Automatic return when gear lever is moved back to neutral position.

COLD STARTING EQUIPMENT 
The object of this system is to provide pre-heating and priming of the inlet manifold and combustion chambers prior to starting in temperatures below 32ºF (0ºC). An atomised fuel spray is injected into the air inlet manifold by operating the Kigass injector pump located on the instrument panel. The spray impinges on to a heater coil screwed into the manifold, providing a warm fuel vapour to assist firing.

Fig 3 

The Kigass filter (see Fig 3) should regularly be dismantled by unscrewing lever type cap and the filter gauze removed and cleaned.

ENGINE STARTING PROCEDURE (Figs 1 and 4)

IMPORTANT 
Disengagement of the starter pinion is automatic. The gear lever must be returned to the neutral position as soon as the engine fires. If the engine fails to run after firing, do not immediately jab the starter into re-engagement. Always wait at least ten seconds if previous starting attempt has failed.

Before attempting to start the engine, ensure that:-
(a) There is sufficient fuel in the tank.

(b) That all fuel line cocks are open and cut-off control is in starting position.
(c) The clutch pedal is depressed.
(d) The brake is 'on' and the ratchet engaged.

Warm weather, above 50ºF (10ºC)

1. Ensure that the decompression lever is in 'up' position to give full compression for all four cylinders.
2. Depress the excess fuel device located on the injector pump.
3. Move the hand throttle lever to the half-open position.
4. Operate the starter.

Cool weather, 32ºF-50ºF (0ºC-10ºC) 

1. Ensure that the decompression lever is in the 'down' position to relieve compression from all four cylinders.
2. Depress the excess fuel device.
3. Move the hand throttle lever to the half-open position.
4. Operate the starter for two seconds, then, still allowing it to remain in operation, move the decompression lever to the intermediate position, giving pressure relief on three cylinders.
5. Immediately the engine fires, move the decompression lever up to 'full compression'.
6. As soon as all four cylinders have fired, return the gear lever to 'neutral' and set the hand throttle lever at just above 'idling' position to warm up the engine.

Cold weather, below 32ºF (0ºC) 

Warming up (before starting) 

1. Set the hand throttle lever in the half-open position.
2. Pull out fully the fuel cut-off control and lock in this position.
3. Set the decompression lever in the 'down' position to relieve compression from all four cylinders.
4. Hold out pre-heater control switch for 15 seconds to allow the coil to become hot, then, continuing to hold out the switch, give ONE full charge only with the Kigass injector pump, operating sharply to ensure that the spray is fine enough to be ignited.
5. Operate the starter for 10 seconds to allow the hot vapour to be drawn into the engine.
6. Release pre-heater control switch and disengage starter.

NOTE : If the batteries have become discharged, current should be conserved for starting by turning the engine by hand during the warming-up period. This is not difficult, as the engine is fully decompressed. Normally, an additional person is required to use the starting handle, but the procedure can, if necessary, be carried out by the driver alone if the heater coil switch is held out by means of a wedge. The wedge must be removed immediately after the warming-up cycle to avoid further drain on the batteries.

Fig 4 

KEY TO FIG 4

A. PRE-HEATER CONTROL SWITCH
B. THROTTLE LEVER
C. KIGASS INJECTOR PUMP
D. ANNETER
E. DECOMPRESSION LEVER REAR
F. FUEL CUT-OFF CONTROL
G. GEAR SELECTOR LEVER

7. Move the decompression lever up to the 'full compression' position.
8. Release the fuel cut-off control.
9. Depress the excess fuel device.
10. Give approximately HALF stroke with the Kigass injector pump.
11. Pull out pre-heater control switch.
12. Operate the starter for ten seconds.
13. As soon as the engine starts, release the heater switch, return the gear lever to 'neutral' position and set the hand throttle lever at just above 'idling' position to warm up engine.

NOTE: If the engine does not start within 10 seconds, do not continue the attempt to start, but five a further warming-up as previously described.

N.B. - The Kigass pump must be screwed back securely after use.

TO STOP THE ENGINE 
Pull the fuel cut-off control under left-hand side of instrument panel, shown in Fig 4. In cases of emergency only should engine be stopped by operating the decompression lever or by turning off any of the fuel taps.

BEFORE STARTING WORK 
Check that engine oil pressure is correct. Ensure that there is an ample fuel supply in the tank for the work in hand.




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